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Approach for a better appearance of acne-prone skin by Zurko Research via FOCUS #10

27 June 2024

Approach for a better appearance of acne-prone skin

Impure, acne-prone skin is common among both males and females during puberty and can sometimes persist into adulthood. This condition arises due to increased sebum production influenced by male sex hormones, abnormal follicular keratinization, and subsequent proliferation of skin microflora and inflammatory responses. The skin often appears greasy and shiny, rough with enlarged pores, and has a higher tendency to develop comedones, pimples, and pustules. Many individuals find this skin condition unpleasant and consider it a significant cosmetic issue, highlighting the importance of controlling impure, acne-prone skin.

Currently, there are numerous topical formulations designed for cleansing and caring for this type of skin. These products claim to normalize sebum production, remove excess oil, reduce pore size, and clear skin imperfections. Cosmetic products for impure skin focus on cleaning and caring for the skin. Their claims often include cleansing, degreasing, controlling shine, restoring the balance of oily skin, cleaning pores, removing excess oil and unwanted microorganisms, as well as clarifying, reducing blemishes, and improving the overall health of acne-prone skin.

A balanced approach to evaluating the effectiveness of these treatments involves combining endpoints such as ordinal global assessment scales, acne lesion counts, and instrumental assessments of relevant skin parameters.

Next, we will focus on clinical and instrumental evaluations for this type of skin.

Study approachings

Sebum and shiny appearance

One of the main concerns is sebum control and, related to it, managing the shiny appearance of the skin due to the presence of oil. In other words, we aim to achieve a more mattified skin appearance by reducing the presence of sebum.

For this, a combined approach can be taken by measuring sebum concentration with the Sebumeter® SM 815 and assessing skin shine with the Skin-Glossymeter GL 200.

These effects can be observed in the medium to long term with cleansing or treatment products, but it is also very interesting to see a more immediate effect related to makeup products, such as translucent powders or mattifying primers.

Pores appearance

When we seek to improve the appearance of acne-prone skin, evaluating the way we perceive pores is also crucial. On skin that is dirty or appears very oily, pores are more noticeable. Through a visual assessment, we will study whether they are less prominent or perceptible.

Prevention

Regarding a preventive aspect, we could conduct a study of the porphyrins present in the skin, as they can indicate potential acne lesions.  The accumulation of C. acnes and the production of porphyrins can contribute to the inflammation of the pilosebaceous follicle.  The reactive oxygen species generated by the activation of porphyrins can damage surrounding cells and increase the inflammatory response, potentially exacerbating acne lesions.  We can visualize them using the UV light filter of the VISIA Skin Analysis.

Recovery

Lastly, in order to eliminate the traces of acne lesions that remain on the skin, we can evaluate the intensity of post-acne blemishes: post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH) and post-inflammatory erythema (PIE).  We can conduct this evaluation through clinical assessment and photographic support, but also by studying the hemoglobin and melanin content using the Mexameter® MX 18. In this case, a good selection of panelists will be crucial, as the development of these two types of post-inflammatory lesions is directly related to the skin tone of the panelist.

Conclusion

We emphasize the importance of proper care for this type of skin, focusing on prevention, maintaining a healthy appearance, and avoiding negative impacts, which will directly affect the quality of life for individuals with acne-prone skin. Adequate skincare routines not only help in managing current skin conditions but also in preventing future outbreaks and complications. Furthermore, understanding the specific needs and challenges of acne-prone skin can lead to more effective treatments and skincare products, ultimately contributing to better skin health and overall well-being. Continuous research and innovation in this field are essential to provide the best care and improve the lives of those affected by acne.

 

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