In vivo sun protection factor measurement by SGS proderm

20 May 2024

Currently, ISO is working on a new standard for in vivo sun protection factor measurement. The measurement method underlying the ISO/DIS 23698 draft standard using HDRS is a promising alternative to the current gold standard ISO 24444. It is non-invasive, thus meeting high ethical requirements. Additionally, the measurement on the subject takes only one day instead of two, which can accelerate product development.

For over 20 years, ISO 24444 has been considered the international gold standard for sun protection factor measurement. Initially published in 1994, after several optimizations, it has been in its current form since 2019.

With EU Directive 2006/647/EC, ethical concerns regarding ISO 24444 were expressed as early as 2006, prompting the industry to develop alternatives.

The ALT-SPF Consortium, established in 2018 and comprising 29 companies, has committed to the development of alternatives. In a series of tests, five alternative methods were examined, among which the HDRS method could be incorporated into an ISO draft standard.

Measured with a Multi-LED-System

At SGS proderm, HDRS is measured using a multi-LED system. A final publication of the proficiency tests conducted by the ALT Consortium, in which LED-HDRS also participated, is not yet available. However, the basic suitability of the LED-HDRS method can be considered assured, as suggested in the publication ‘In vivo sun protection factor and UVA protection factor determination using (hybrid) diffuse reflectance spectroscopy and a multi-lambda-LED light source’ published in the Journal of Biophotonics. Throm et al. demonstrated good to very good correlations between LED-HDRS and ISO 24444 and ISO 24443.

Despite this basic suitability and the promising results of the laboratories involved in the ALT Consortium proficiency tests, further optimizations are necessary on the path to an international standard. In this context, the variance of results between laboratories is particularly noteworthy.

SGS proderm is involved in the development of the new standard on various levels: as a participant in another proficiency test planned for 2024, as well as through committee work conducted by Stephan Bielfeldt as a member of ISO Working Group 7. Working Group 7 is responsible for the development of sun protection standards at ISO.

Do you have any questions about the development of the ISO standard or the LED-HDRS method? We are happy to provide you with more detailed insights. If interested, please feel free to use our contact form.

May 23 | Webinar | Shining a Light on Sunscreen Products: Trends and Testing

Objective

In this webinar, we will delve into the key drivers shaping the sunscreen products market, and aim to anticipate the evolving landscape of sunscreen product testing. Our panel of experts from the USA and Europe will present current testing methodologies, followed by an in-depth discussion on emerging trends and their potential market implications.

By joining this session, participants will gain a comprehensive overview of pivotal market factors, including specific regional requirements, and the knowledge to stay ahead of the curve in the dynamic world of sunscreen products.

Agenda